In this new series, Venetian locals reveal their hidden gems and personal favorites, offering insider tips to experience Venice like never before. Each walk is carefully crafted from their recommendations to guide you through the authentic heart of the city. In this journey, Federico and Paolo from Small Caps take us to their neighbourhood and reveal the hidden gems of Dorsoduro.
Federico and Paolo were roommates during their studies at IUAV (Istituto Universitario di Architettura Venezia). After graduating as architects, they decided to stay in Venice because it’s the perfect environment for them: the city is small and suits their personal lifestyle, while the cultural scene is vibrant and active. In 2012, the friends founded Small Caps. As graphic designers, they design and hand-print illustrations in small editions, using the screen-print technique. More information >>> www.smallcaps.it
What’s the one thing you adore most about Venice?
“The silence. It’s because there are no cars and none of the anxiety they bring. This makes a big difference compared to other cities. We believe it’s a true unicity of Venice.”
Federico and Paolo’s special place: start of the itinerary
“In our workshop on Campo Santa Margherita, we deal with the small little things of Venice, with the wide territory of the lagoon, with the citizens of Venice, who make it a city. And we focus on the modern and contemporary aspects of Venice. When we want to take a break during the day, we escape to the nearby Orto dei Carmini. Volunteers maintain this small, hidden garden behind the Santa Maria del Carmelo (often called dei Carmini) church. Entrance is free, but you need to find the door left open by one of the volunteers. While you’re there, take a look inside the church to see the great pipe organ. If you are lucky, you can listen to the players rehearsing.”
The garden and the church of Santa Maria del Carmelo are part of the Scuola dei Carmini. This 14th century church features a renaissance façade with 5 statues, i.e. the Redeemer, John the Baptist, the Virgin, and the prophets Elijia and Elisha who are considered to be the founders of the Carmelite order. The Carmini church is renowned for its impressive interior. It is adorned with beautiful frescoes and artwork, including works by notable artists such as Giovanni Battista Tiepolo and an altarpiece by Jacopo Tintoretto. There is also a stunning frescoed dome, decorated with angels by Sebastiano Ricci.
(Campo Santa Margherita, Dorsoduro 2916; Carmini Campo, Dorsoduro 2617)
From Campo Santa Margherita to Palazzo Fondazione Masieri
On Campo Santa Margherita, head north until you cross the Rio de Ca’Foscari and see the San Pantalon church on your left. Then, move towards Canal Grande to find Palazzo Fondazione Masieri next to Canal Grande.
“The ceiling of the San Pantalon church (Federico and Paolo’s tip for first-time visitors) isn’t a fresco. It’s actually painted on a giant canvas.”
The San Pantalon church is one of Venice’s hidden gems. Francesco Camino designed the current building in baroque style and it was built between 1668 and 1686. The impressive painting on the ceiling shows ‘The Martyrdom and Glorification of San Pantalon’, painted by the Venetian artist Giovanni Antonio Fumiani. At 443 m2, it’s considered the largest canvas painting in the world. The church houses a wealth of baroque art, including detailed murals, striking paintings and elaborate altars. There are more than 80 masterpieces to admire, including some by famous artists such as of Paolo Veronese, Paolo Veneziano, Antonio Vivarini, Jacopo Palma il Giovane and Pietro Longhi. You can read more about this fascinating church in ‘The masterpieces behind San Pantalon’s modest brick façade‘.
(Campo San Pantalon, Dorsoduro)
“Palazzo Fondazione Masieri (Federico and Paolo’s favorite museum) is a small jewel with an incredible recent story behind it. You can find some interventions from architect Carlo Scarpa, who is beloved by all Venetians.”
Shortly before his death, architect Angelo Masieri asked the American architect Frank Lloyd Wright to renovate his family’s pre-nineteenth-century building in the ‘Volta di Canal Grande’. The city of Venice rejected the proposal as they deemed it inappropriate to erect new buildings within Venice’s historic fabric. In 1968, the Masieri Foundation asked the renowned Venetian architect Carlo Scarpa to redesign the interior of the Palazzina while preserving the building’s external façade. The building designed by Scarpa was completed in March 1983. Carlo Scarpa is known for his instinctive approach of materials, combining artisanal techniques with modern production methods.
(Dorsoduro 3900, www.masieri.org)
From Palazzo Fondazione Masieri to Campo San Trovaso
Ca’Foscari is situated across the canal from Palazzo Fondazione Masieri, so cross the Rio de Ca’Foscari and the university is on your left. Head southwards and after crossing the Rio de S. Barnaba, turn left towards Canal Grande to find Ca’Rezzonico. Take a left and continue straight until you reach Campo San Trovaso.
“The Aula Baratto (Federico and Paolo’s tip for first-time visitors) is a great classroom at Ca’ Foscari University which faces Canal Grande. It was also a project by architect Carlo Scarpa.”
The Aula Baratto is the showpiece of the Ca’Foscari University, which is based in a beautiful 15th century palazzo. The aula on the first floor opens onto Canal Grande and used to be very popular for parties. In 1936, Carlo Scarpa transformed it into the main auditorium of the university. His typical style can be recognized in the wooden windows, but especially in the furniture and the marble stage. In 1956, Scarpa converted the auditorium into a smaller hall for lectures. The woodwork that separates the corridor from the auditorium is a real gem. The Aula Baratto can be visited as part of a guided tour or by attending a lecture.
(Dorsoduro 3246)
“You can enter the Giardino di Ca’ Rezzonico (Federico and Paolo’s tip a hidden inspirational spot) for free. The garden is a great place to find a nice shade during hot summers. There are few people around, and you can admire the majestic Ca’ Rezzonico building next to it.”
The Bon family originally commissioned the Ca’ Rezzonico palazzo to Baldassare Longhena in the 17th century. Unfortunatey, after the death of Longhena and due to financial problems in the family, the construction remained unfinished. In 1750, Giambattista Rezzonico, whose family had recently received a noble title by paying a large sum of money, bought the building along Canal Grande. He commissioned Giorgio Massari to complete the works. Over time, the palazzo changed owners several times and was finally bought by the city of Venice in 1935. It houses the 18th century art collections, including masterpieces by Tiepolo, Rosalba Carriera, Pietro Longhi, Canaletto and Guardi.
(Fondamenta Rezzonico, Dorsoduro, carezzonico.visitmuve.it)
“The central part of the small Campo San Trovaso (Federico and Paolo’s tip a hidden inspirational spot) is a raised floor where you can easily sit. It’s a nice spot to stay alone or to chat with some friends drinking a cup.”
The first church on the Campo San Trovaso originated from the 10th century, but the current building dates back to the end of the 16th century. The church of Santi Gervasio e Protasio San Trovaso has two identical facades, each with its own entrance, and looks onto two different canals. This duplication allowed the two rival communities, the Nicolotti and Castellani,to have entrances of equal importance. The church interior houses important works, including canvases by Jacopo and Domenico Tintoretto and altarpieces by Palma il Giovane. On the other side of the Campo, the Squero San Trovaso builds and maintains gondolas.
(Campo San Trovaso, Dorsoduro)
From Campo San Trovaso to Mercato di Santa Marta
Take a right at the Rio del Ognissanti and follow the Rio Terà Ognissanti until you reach C. Lunga S. Barnaba. Teatro a l’Avogaria is on your right after you crossed a canal. Continue to the west towards Fondamente de l’Arzere and continue westwards in the Santa Marta area to reach the farmers’ market.
“Teatro a l’Avogaria (Federico and Paolo’s tip for frequent visitors) is a small theatre, really small, nestled between the houses. Finding it is already an adventure.”
Giovanni Poli, a prominent figure in Italian theatre known for reviving the Commedia dell’Arte, founded the Teatro a L’Avogaria in 1969. The building that houses Teatro a L’Avogaria was originally part of the Avogaria family and dates back to the 17th century. Giovanni Poli chose this historical venue to connect contemporary theatrical practices with Venice’s cultural heritage. It has become a hub for innovative performances and actor training and is renowned for its intimate setting and dedication to exploring traditional and contemporary drama.
(Dorsoduro 1617, www.teatro-avogaria.it)
“Fondamenta de l’Arzere (Federico and Paolo’s tip for frequent visitors) is the little heart of the Santa Marta area. There are almost only Venetian citizens and university students and professors, with several bars to meet and other shops.”
Fondamenta de l’Arzere is a picturesque and quiet canal-side street. It is less frequented by tourists, offering a tranquil atmosphere and local charm. Historically, it was part of a working-class neighbourhood with boatyards and warehouses. Today, the area maintains a residential feel, with several hidden gems like traditional osterias and artisan workshops. The word arzere is Venetian for the Italian argine, or dike in English. In ancient times, a dike was built here to prevent erosion from the water.
“Every Monday morning, farmers from the mainland come to set up a market with fresh fruit, vegetables, meat, cheese, honey and other local products on the Mercato di Santa Marta (Federico and Paolo’s tip for frequent visitors). You will find friendly locals and high-quality food at the best prices.”
The Mercato di Santa Marta is a small but lively local market in the Santa Marta neighbourhood. It is known for its fresh produce, fish, and traditional Venetian food items, making it popular with residents looking for quality ingredients. The market also reflects the authentic side of Venice, far from the crowded tourist areas, and provides a glimpse into the city’s daily life. Its relaxed setting and proximity to the university campus create a vibrant yet laid-back atmosphere.
(Santa Marta, Calle Longhi, Dorsoduro)
Any other insider tips you’d like to share?
“Get out of the main island. Explore the lagoon and the other smaller islands. Rent a boat.”
More tips from Federico and Paolo
Coffee: Caffè Rosso (Campo Santa Margherita 2963, Dorsoduro, www.cafferosso.it): We have always loved the atmosphere here. It’s easy to run into friends here, have a quick chat and share a laugh.
Aperitivo: Caconero (Dorsoduro 2344): Nice staff, nice drinks, nice music, nice guests. Along a canal, where it’s common to sit outside on the small wall.
Dinner with friends: Osteria da Codroma (Fondamenta Briati 2540, Dorsoduro, www.facebook.com/dacodroma): We love their long tables, which are shared with other guests.
Special evening dinner: Ristoteca Oniga (Campo San Barnaba 2852, Dorsoduro, www.oniga.it): Nice Venetian food.
Shops: Libreria MarcoPolo (Dorsoduro 2899, www.libreriamarcopolo.com): books, mainly from independent Italian editors; Living in the past (Dorsoduro 3474, www.facebook.com/recordsandbooksstore): second hand vinyl records, books and posters. Sergio, the owner, is a living discographic encyclopedia; Bijoux Abbigliamento (Dorsoduro 1358, www.bijouxabbigliamento.it): a nice little fashion shop specializing in women’s clothing. We recommend their cotton sweaters.
Books: Lo stampatore di Venezia by Javier Azpeitia. An historical book about Aldo Manuzio, and the flourishing of typography and book publishing in Europe, centered around Venice.
If you liked the walk around Dorsoduro and want to continue, you can either jump onto the walk with Eva (from Sant’Erasmo to San Giorgio Maggiore) or with Nicoletta (from Torcello to Giudecca). Both walks pass through Dorsoduro so you could extend your current walk.
Have fun!