In this new series, Venetian locals reveal their hidden gems and personal favorites, offering insider tips to experience Venice like never before. Each walk is carefully crafted from their recommendations to guide you through the authentic heart of the city. In this journey, Luisella Romeo takes us from the peaceful island of San Francesco del Deserto along mystical gardens and stunning churches to San Giovanni in Bragora. She shares her favorite places which don’t receive enough attention from tourists and hence risk to close to the public.
Luisella Romeo has Venetian roots and wouldn’t like to live anywhere else but in Venice. She lived abroad for a few years and truly loved each city, but she always felt drawn back to Venice. “I love the lagoon and its waters, I love Venice’s art, so diversified, its historical role as a city between the East and the West. Working as a licensed tourist guide in Venice for almost 25 years while also being a resident puts me in an interesting (and complicated) position. On one side I am a resident suffering for the excesses of tourism, on the other I am a guide in contact with curious visitors traveling to Venice. In my everyday life I do my best to promote local activities and to protect our fragile and unique environment. I try to adopt the same attitude even when I run my tours, always keeping in mind we need to respect Venice. To be a tourist guide implies a lot of responsibility.” More information >>> www.seevenice.it
What’s the one thing you adore most about Venice?
“In Venice, there is always something new to discover, and I am not just talking about history or art. It’s because of its residents, some by birth, some by choice, that the city offers so much. There are a lot of places in Venice where I have not been yet, every day there are many events you would like to attend, more people to meet, more masterpieces and projects to discover. It’s overwhelming. I feel lucky I live in a city where the meaning of the word ‘community’ truly means something.”
Luisella’s special place: start of the itinerary
Take the vaporetto to Burano and switch to a shuttle to bring you to the island of San Francesco del Deserto. Reservation details can be found on the site of the monastery.
“If you go to the island of Burano, arrange a private trip to the island of San Francesco del Deserto. Its Franciscan monastery will enchant you, as will its quiet and beautiful park with cypress trees and roses.”
San Francesco del Deserto is a small island in the Venetian lagoon with a peaceful Franciscan monastery. In 1233, the nobleman Jacopo Michiel donated the island to the Minor Franciscan Friars so they could establish their monastery. It was originally a place of retreat and prayer. Over the centuries, the monastery was abandoned and restored several times. Today, the monastery is home to a small group of friars who welcome visitors seeking reflection. The island offers serene gardens, the monastery’s ancient cloisters, and a chance to explore its spiritual atmosphere. One of the friars leads the guided tours of the convent.
(www.sanfrancescodeldeserto.it, www.sanfrancescodeldeserto.it/accoglienza.html)
From San Francesco del Deserto to the Scuola Grande dei Carmini
Return by shuttle to Burano and catch the vaporetto line 12 to Murano. Change to line 4.1 or NM to S. Giobbe. Walk towards the train station where you will find Giardino mistico dei Carmelitani and the Scalzi church. Cross Canal Grande and go southwards towards Dorsoduro and the Campo Santa Margherita.
“Close to the train station in Venice, the Mystical Garden of the Carmelites is one of the largest gardens in the city. Featuring ornamental plants and herbs, trees and flowers, it displays plants with a strong symbolism. Not to mention that you will enjoy a quiet corner right in one of Venice’s busiest areas! Do not miss a visit to the church of Santa Maria degli Scalzi, standing next door. The church was damaged during WW1 so the ceiling is relatively new, surrounded by baroque and rococo altars in marble.”
The Giardino mistico of the Order of Carmelite Friars contains seven flower beds, each representing one of the seven stages (such as self-knowledge, purification) on a soul’s journey to total union with God. This refers to the work ‘Interior Castle’ of St. Teresa of Avila, one of the most important female saints of Catholicism. Since their arrival in Venice in the 17th century, the Carmelites maintain a vegetable garden where they grew vegetables and medicinal herbs, in particular the well-known ‘melissa’. The garden was restored and opened to the public in 2014.
The church dedicated to St. Mary of Nazareth (Santa Maria degli Scalzi) dates from the 17th century. Baldassarre Longhena designed the baroque church and monastery, while Giuseppe Sardi built the monumental facade adorned with statues. Giuseppe Pozzo, a Carmelite friar and enthusiastic architect of baroque art, took over around 1685 and redesigned the high altar. Giambattista Tiepolo painted the ceiling in fresco between 1743 and 1745, but an Austrian bomb later destroyed it. It was replaced by an impressive painting by Ettore Tito between 1929 and 1933.
(Cannaregio 54, www.chiesadegliscalzi.it)
“The Scuola Grande dei Carmini in the Dorsoduro district has wonderful oil paintings by Giambattista Tiepolo, stucco decorations of the early 18th century and beautiful carved wooden ceilings. Nearby you can also visit the church of Santa Maria dei Carmini and enjoy a wonderful painting by Lorenzo Lotto, among the others.”
The Scuola Grande dei Carmini was founded in 1594 under Doge Pasquale Cicogna. Initially, their premises were basic, consisting only of an altar in the Carmini church and a room in the monastery. In 1625, the Scuola started to build its own site, designed by architects Caustello and Longhena. It is the only scuola that originated from a lay congregation for women, known as ‘Pizzocchere dei Carmini’. The sisters of the confraternity wore scapulars with images of the Blessed Virgin and Christ as a distinctive sign. They made these themselves and distributed them to the devotees as an object of Marian devotion and protection. You can read more about the history of the scuole grandi in ‘These stunning scuole grandi reveal the social history of Venice‘.
(Carmini Campo 2617, Dorsoduro)
From the Scuola Grande dei Carmini to San Giovanni in Bragora
Walk into the direction of Canal Grande and cross the Accademia bridge. Walk eastwards in the direction of Piazza San Marco. On the Riva, in front of the lagoon, you will find the Pietà church and a bit further San Giovanni in Bragora.
“Next to Piazza San Marco, do not miss visiting the Church di Santa Maria della Visitazione, called Pietà. It will be a wonderful way to learn about Antonio Vivaldi, his music and his tradition. If you can, do attend one of their concerts! And nearby you can visit the church of San Giovannni in Bragora where the famous composer was baptized. Cima da Conegliano’s altarpiece ‘the Baptism of Jesus’ is simply wonderful.”
The Church of Santa Maria della Visitazione, also known as the Church of the Pietà, was designed by architect Giorgio Massari and built between 1745 and 1760. The facade was only completed in 1906. Inspired by Vivaldi’s compositions for choral performances, Giorgio Massari designed an oval-shaped church. Vivaldi died in 1741, so he never performed in the current Church of the Pietà. He spent most of his working life as a violin teacher and composer at the Ospedale della Pietà, next to the church of the Pietà. In this orphanage, he composed most of his concerts. The church has also stunning frescoes by the Venetian artist Giambattista Tiepolo.
(Riva degli Schiavoni, Castello, www.pietavenezia.org)
Founded in the 7th century, San Giovanni in Bragora is one of the oldest churches in Venice. The current building was constructed in the late gothic style as part of a renovation that began in 1475 and lasted for 15 years. Restorations with baroque ornamentations were carried out in 1728. Antonio Vivaldi and Pope Paul II were baptized here, and architect Giorgio Massari is buried here. Giambattista Cima da Conegliano painted The Baptism of Christ between 1492 and 1494. There are also works by Jacopo Palma il Giovane and Bartolomeo Vivarini, as well as remains of 15th century frescoes.
(Campo Bandiera e Moro 3790, Castello)
Any other insider tips you’d like to share?
“I would recommend you enjoy Venice slow. Whatever you choose to visit, pretend you haven’t been here before. Start from scratch and revisit. You will be surprised at noticing how much you missed during your previous visits!”
More tips from Luisella
Coffee: Illy Caffè (Giardini Reali, San Marco); Torrefazione Girani (Campo Bandiera e Moro 3707, Castello) for great artisanal coffee and coffee blends.
Ice cream: Alaska (Calle Larga dei Bari 1159, Santa Croce): thoroughly artisanal! Just don’t go if you like super sweet flavours!
Aperitivo: All’Ombra del Leone (Ca’Giustinian, San Marco 1364, www.ombradelleone.com) for the view over Canal Grande
Dinner with friends: At home! I know it sounds strange, but it’s not just me! Venetians love organizing dinners with friends at home. More intimate, more relaxed than a restaurant, and in my experience, the best food.
Bookshops: Libreria MarcoPolo (Dorsoduro 2899, www.libreriamarcopolo.com); La Toletta (Sacca della Toletta 1214, Dorsoduro, www.latoletta.com); Karass (Calle Larga Giacinto Gallina 6374, Cannaregio); Sullaluna (Fondamenta de la Misericordia, Cannaregio 2535, www.sullalunavenezia.it); Libreria Bertoni (Calle della Mandola 3637B, San Marco, www.bertonilibri.com); Cafoscarina (Dorsoduro 3259, cafoscarina.it); Libreria Studium (San Marco 337); Damocle edizioni (Calle del Perdon 1311, San Polo, damocleedizioni.com); Libreria editrice Filippi (C. del Paradiso 5763, Castello, libreriaeditricefilippi.com); Libreria Mare di Carta (Fondamenta dei Tolentini 222, Santa Croce, maredicarta.com); Lineadacqua (Calle della Mandola 3716B, San Marco, www.lineadacqua.com); Libreria Miracoli (Campo Santa Maria Nova 6062, Cannaregio)
Books: African Venice, edited by Wetlands and curated by Shaul Bassi and Paul Kaplan. It is a fascinating and thought-provoking guidebook exploring Africa’s presence in the arts (and not just) in Venice. The book features several articles, essays, poems and reflections by different authors about a controversial subject and, most of the time, hidden presence.
If you would like to continue your walk, Palazzo Grimani and Querini Stampalia are nearby San Giovanni in Bragora, so you can continue there with the walk with Eva (from Sant’Erasmo to San Giorgio Maggiore).
Have fun!