A walk from Sant’Erasmo to San Giorgio Maggiore with Eva

In this exciting new series, Venetian locals reveal their hidden gems and personal favorites, offering insider tips to experience Venice like never before. I crafted each walk based on their recommendations to guide you through the authentic heart of the city. In this first journey, Eva Ohtonen leads us from the lush, tranquil Sant’Erasmo island, through Venice’s vibrant city center, to the serene San Giorgio Maggiore.

Eva Ohtonen is a Finnish artist photographer who has lived in Venice since 1995. She specializes in wedding photography, portraiture, fashion and still-life, and also organizes photography courses and workshops for individuals and groups. During her early morning tour in the San Polo district for instance, she takes you for 3 hours to the oldest incredible hidden corners and courtyards, perfect for photographing or being photographed. You will also visit the beautiful home of a famous Venetian painter for a friendly chat and a cup of coffee. More information >>> www.studioimmaginovenezia.com

What’s the one thing you adore most about Venice?

“I love Venice as it’s an island without cars. The city stayed very traditional and original, even almost medieval.“

Eva’s special place: start of the itinerary

“A walk on Sant’Erasmo island between the artichoke fields is my favorite way to relax and feel inspired. Step out from the vaporetto at the S. Erasmo Chiesa vaporetto stop and walk clockwise around the island through the farmers’ lands to the S. Erasmo Capannone vaporetto stop.”

People often call Sant’Erasmo the garden of Venice. A lot of vegetables are grown on the island, in particular the early carciofo violet di Sant’Erasmo and other root vegetables. Hence, it’s a world apart from Venice’s bustling city center. Don’t expect palazzos, museums or shops. Here, you will discover serene fields of vegetables, tranquil canals, and breathtaking views of nature and the lagoon. The island’s only landmark is the Torre Massimiliana, a cylindrical fortified tower perched along the beach.

From Sant’Erasmo to San Pietro di Castello

To proceed with your walk in the center of Venice, take the vaporetto to S. Pietro di Castello. Walk around the small island until you reach the port and the Campo San Pietro.

The church and bell tower of San Pietro (Eva’s tip for frequent visitors) are completely hidden in the north of Castello, on a small island. It used to be the basilica of Venice until 1807, while the current basilica of San Marco was still the private church of the Doge. The earliest structure on the site was built in the 7th century, but the current building originates from the 16th century. Palladio designed the plans for the restoration of the façade and the interior, but he didn’t finish the works himself.

From San Pietro di Castello to Palazzo Grimani and Querini Stampalia

After visiting the church, turn left towards the Via Garibaldi. Follow the Riva and turn right after Hotel Gabrielli towards the Campiello de la Pescaria and further to Campo Santa Maria Formosa.

“Palazzo Grimani (one of Eva’s favorite museums) is the magical Renaissance building of a family collecting archeological Greek treasures. Recently restored, its statues have been relocated to the archeological museum in Piazza San Marco. You can however still watch the virtual tour of the Antiquarium which shows you how it was in the 15th century.“

Antonio Grimani acquired the original medieval building as a family residence and later became a doge in 1521. The Tribunais the most impressive part of the palazzo to display his sculptures, including Greek and Roman works. Inspired by the Pantheon in Rome, the only light comes from the top from where the ‘Abduction of Ganymede’ statue is hanging. You can read more about this Palazzo in the post ‘Palazzo Grimani, an extraordinary palazzo hidden in Venice’.

(Ramo Grimani, Castello 4858)

“Fondazione Querini Stampalia (another one of Eva’s favorite museums) is the house museum of the Querini Stampalia family. It hosts, among other treasures, a collection of paintings by Gabriel Bella showing the private and public festivities in Venice of the 18th-19th centuries. Architect Carlo Scarpa beautifully restored the downstairs area, including the cafeteria, garden, and library.“

The Querinis were amongst the first founders of the city of Venice. When Count Giovanni, the last descendant of the Querini Stampalias, died in 1869, he left all his possessions to the city of Venice and to the world, in order to create a Foundation that promotes “studies and useful disciplines”, and that would be open to visitors especially when the other cultural institutions are closed. The museum presents the interior of the historic residence where the Querini families once lived, while also hosting temporary exhibitions.

(Campo Santa Maria Formosa, Castello 5252)

From Querini Stampalia to Campo dei Mori and Madonna dell’Orto

Head north towards Cannaregio and keep going north across the different canals until you reach the area of Campo dei Mori and Madonna dell’Orto.

The area of Campo dei Mori and the church Madonna dell’Orto (Eva’s tip for frequent visitors) is very much linked to the Venetian painter Tintoretto, who lived here for the last 20 years of his live and had his studio on the Campo dei Mori. He is buried in the Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto. Tintoretto devoted considerable time decorating the church with 10 magnificent paintings. The ‘Last Judgment’ is one of his most complex works and shows his intention to combine the skills of Titian and Michelangelo. This style of monumental artistic decoration of a church was new to Venice at that time.

From Madonna dell’Orto to the San Trovaso squero and the Accademia bridge

Go towards the Santa Lucia train station and head south towards the Dorsoduro area.

Venice once boasted more than 40 squeros (Eva’s tip for first-time visitors), workshops where craftsmen built and maintained gondolas and other wooden boats. In the 18th and 19th centuries, young immigrants from the Dolomites established many of these squeros. As they had a lot of experience of working with timber, their families sent them to Venice to build gondolas and boats. In the end, these young men settled in Venice and started a family. The walking tour brings you along the San Trovaso squero.

In 1854, the Ponte dell’Accademia (Accademia bridge) (Eva’s tip for first-time visitors) was the second bridge where Venetian citizens could cross Canal Grande. However, when the vaporettos were put into service at the beginning of the 20th century, they couldn’t pass underneath the flat iron bridge. The authorities organized a competition to select a new design, but none of the entries was sufficiently convincing. The current wooden bridge, with an arch of 48 meters, was built in 1932 as a temporary solution. The bridge has recently been restored and remains as such a landmark in Venice.

From the Accademia bridge to San Giorgio Maggiore

Take the vaporetto towards San Giorgio Maggiore.

“From the San Giorgio Maggiore island (Eva’s tip for first-time visitors), you have an incredible view on San Marco and the city of Venice.”

San Giorgio Maggiore’s iconic view, directly across San Marco, is one every visitor instantly recognizes. Andrea Palladio designed the impressive church with the white marble façade and started the construction in 1565. The island stayed in the hands of the Benedictines until the early 19th century when Napoleon claimed it as a military area. In 1951, Count Vittorio Cini bought the island to restore it to its original beauty in honour of his son Giorgio.

More tips from Eva

Malamocco (Eva’s tip for frequent visitors) is the second largest village on the island Lido di Venezia. It is a beautiful village, with an old, preserved town centre. The most striking building and the most important monument in the village is the large church of Santa Maria Assunta. The present church of Malamocco dates back to the 15th century.

Coffee: Pasticceria Rosa Salva (San Giovanni e Paolo, Castello 6780)

Aperitivo: All’Ombra del Leone (Ca’Giustinian, San Marco 1364); Ostaria Vecia Giudeca (Fondamenta Sant’Eufemia 596, Giudecca)

Dinner with friends: Pizzeria Jazz Club Novecento 900 (Campiello del Sansoni, San Polo 900)

Special evening dinner: Osteria Enoteca Ai Artisti (Fondamenta della Toletta 1169/A, Dorsoduro); Antiche Carampane (San Polo 1911)

Shops: Rialto market for fruit and vegetables, fish and meat, and nearby Mascari for spices, wines and chocolate; Sotoportego dei Oresi for very cool not only glass design shops, such as Attombri for jewelry (Sottoportico degli Orefici 65, San Polo) or the Sent Sisters for glass jewelry and art (Sotoportego de Rialto, San Polo 70); Panificio El Fornareto, traditional bakery with seasonal specialities, the top! (Cannaregio 2668)

Books: Veneziaenigma by Alberto Toso Fei; Corto Maltese: Fable of Venice by Hugo Pratt

Whether you’re a first-time visitor or a seasoned Venice lover, this walk offers a fresh perspective on the city’s rich history, vibrant culture, and serene landscapes. By following the footsteps of locals like Eva, you’ll uncover the lesser-known treasures that make Venice so enchanting. Don’t forget to check back for more walks in this series, as we continue to explore Venice through the eyes of its residents. In the meantime, check out ‘9 insider tips to escape the crowds‘ and discover how to experience a quieter, more peaceful side of Venice.

Enjoy the walk!