In this new series, Venetian locals reveal their hidden gems and personal favorites, offering insider tips to experience Venice like never before. Each walk is carefully crafted from their recommendations to guide you through the authentic heart of the city. In this journey, Nicoletta Fornara leads us from the origins of Venice in Torcello, through the quiet areas of Santa Croce and Dorsoduro, to the artistic side of Giudecca.
Nicoletta Fornaro, a freelance photographer and content creator, was born on the beautiful island of Lido. She went to school in Venice and graduated with honors in Conservation of the Cultural Heritage at the Ca’ Foscari University. Nicoletta traveled extensively, but after marrying a Venetian, she decided to permanently settle in the lagoon. She runs unconventional and tailor-made photography tours and portrait sessions that offer escapes from the crowds and truly honest experiences of the city. More information >>> www.naturallyepicurean.org
What’s the one thing you adore most about Venice?
“There isn’t just one thing, but if I had to choose, I would say the way water reflects light. I could spend hours looking at the movement of the waves and at the shimmer of its mirroring.
I haven’t always loved my city. As a teenager, I found Venice too slow compared to major cities. When I was at university, I dreamed of moving away because I knew it lacked professional opportunities that don’t revolve around tourism. So I started seeking jobs abroad and, of course, it was exactly when I was away that I realized how much I was missing Venice and started to truly appreciate its uniqueness. I still believe it is a challenging city and would change many things, but I consider myself lucky to live here and experience its beauty every day.”
Nicoletta’s special place: start of the itinerary
“When I seek peace and inspiration, I head to the islands and my favorite is Torcello, especially in the very early morning and in the colder months, when it is empty and it is just me and the local rooster, one of the few official residents left.”
The small island of Torcello became the cradle of Venice when the inhabitants of the Roman city of Altino settled here in the 5th century to escape the troops of Attila the Hun. This was the start of the habitation in the lagoon, even before Venice. Torcello used to be the economic centre of the lagoon, with about 20,000 inhabitants, many palazzos and 16 monasteries. Now, the island is almost deserted. The Santa Maria Assunta dates from the 7th century and was the first cathedral of Venice.
From Torcello to Ca’Pesaro
Take vaporetto line 9 from Torcello to Burano, where you switch to line 12 to Fondamente Nove. From there, walk in the direction of the Rialto bridge and cross it. Continue until you have passed the market, and you will find Ca’Pesaro on your right, next to Canal Grande.
“I used to go to the Modern Art Gallery Ca’Pesaro as a teenager when I skipped school and over the years, I have developed a tight connection with many of its artworks. It offers an interesting perspective on both international and local art of the late 1800s and the 20th century. The Museum of Oriental Art on the top floor is a little gem. After the visit, it’s great to enjoy a coffee or spritz at the bar on the ground floor, which is right on Canal Grande.
The Ca’Pesaro palazzo along Canal Grande was built in the 17th century for the noble Pesaro family. The famous Venetian architect Baldassarre Longhena designed the family residence and began construction in 1659. The Bevilacqua family bequeathed it to the city of Venice, which decided to use the palazzo to host the municipal collection of modern art starting in 1902. The collection of the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna includes significant 19th and 20th century paintings and sculptures, as well as a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an notable section on graphic art.
(Calle del Tentor, Santa Croce 2076)
From Ca’Pesaro to Dorsoduro
Follow the flow of Canal Grande until you reach the Giardini Papadopoli in front of Piazzale Roma. From there, go southwards towards the San Basilio area in Dorsoduro. After visiting the San Nicolò dei Mendicoli church and the San Sebastiano church, walk in the direction of the Accademia bridge.
“I would be happy if a local recommended me to visit the San Nicolò dei Mendicoli church and the surrounding area, perhaps with another stop at the San Sebastiano church for all the Veronese frescoes and a lunch at Trattoria Angelo Raffaele in the campo with the same name.”
Built in the 7th century, the church of San Nicolò dei Mendicoli is one of the oldest in Venice. According to legend, refugees escaping from Padua during the Lombard invasions founded the church. It has been rebuilt and restored several times. Even though the exterior might not be impressive, the sumptuous decoration inside certainly is. Beautiful wooden carvings, gilded statues and numerous works by artists closely associated with Paolo Veronese adorn the interior of the church.
(Campo San Nicolò dei Mendicoli 1907, Dorsoduro)
Architect Antonio Abbondi, known as Scarpagnino, designed the church of San Sebastiano, which was constructed between 1506 and 1548. It is located on the site of a former hospice. San Sebastiano was one of the chief patrons against plague and pestilence in Europe. It is hence one of the five votive churches in Venice. The church is famous for the extraordinary artworks by Paolo Veronese, one of the most prominent Venetian painters of the 16th century, and also features masterpieces by Tintoretto and Titian.
(Campo San Sebastiano, Dorsoduro)
“My husband and I renew our membership of the Gallerie dell’Accademia every year. We go there whenever we can, often focusing only on one or two paintings. Besides, their temporary exhibitions are always so interesting, and they are also very active and offer many cultural events. A must-see for those who love the art of the past and want to learn more about the great Venetian artists of the 15th and 16th century.”
The historic complex of Santa Maria della Carità, which includes the church, its monastery, and the Scuola Grande (see also ‘These scuole grandi reveal the social history of Venice‘), houses the collection of the Gallerie dell’Accademia. The first buildings on this site date back to the early 12th century. The church and the monastery have been renovated several times, including the eastern wing of the monastery by Andrea Palladio. The Gallerie dell’Accademia owns the largest collection of Venetian paintings in the world, from the 14th to the 18th century.
(Campo della Carità, Dorsoduro 1050)
From Dorsoduro to Giudecca
Walk around the Gallerie dell’Accademia and go in the direction of Zattere. Take vaporetto line 2 to Giudecca Palanca. Keep the canal to your right and take the second street on the left. At the end, you will find the cloister of SS. Cosma e Damiano. Before heading back to Venice, take your time to wander around Giudecca (see tips in ‘Giudecca: a peaceful island with 10 remarkable buildings‘).
“I would be happy to discover the island of Giudecca and the cloister of Ss. Cosma e Damiano, with the workshops of local artisans.”
Marina Celsi founded the Santi Cosma e Damiano monastery in 1481. It became one of the most prestigious female monasteries of the city, with residents of the most influential patrician Venetian families. They later transformed the building into a military hospital with barracks, into a shelter for the homeless and into a knitwear plant. After the factory closed in 1982, the monastery was restored and now local artisans run workshops around its cloister. They create traditional Venetian products, such as masks or glass, but also paintings, cards or metal objects.
(Calle Cosmo, Giudecca 620)
Any other insider tips you’d like to share?
“The Venice I am in love with is the quieter one, where kids play ‘campanon’ or ‘un, due, tre stella’ in the campi (small squares), while parents get the chance to have a laid-back chat. This Venice is everywhere and to be able to discover it, a visitor needs to not follow a plan or pre-given advice and just be completely open to the unique nature and strange (or should I say estranged?) inhabitants of this city.
The most important thing to do in Venice is to forget about what is written in your travel guide and follow your senses! Don’t be afraid to get lost. On the contrary, just let yourself be led by the city and be ready to discover the unexpected.”
More tips from Nicoletta
Lido: I find peace here going for long walks on the beach up to the Lighthouse of San Nicolò.
The island of San Giorgio Maggiore: take your time to admire the outstanding Tintoretto paintings inside the church and take the elevator to enjoy the most beautiful view of Venice from the bell tower (more information on this in ‘A walk from Sant’Erasmo to San Giorgio Maggiore with Eva)
Church of Madonna dell’Orto and the quieter corners of Cannaregio (more information on this in ‘A walk from Sant’Erasmo to San Giorgio Maggiore with Eva)
Coffee: Sullaluna (Fondamenta de la Misericordia, Cannaregio 2535, www.sullalunavenezia.it); Combo (Campo dei Gesuiti, Cannaregio 4878, thisiscombo.com)
Aperitivo: natural wine bars: Adriatico Mar (Calle Crosera, Dorsoduro 3771), Cantina Arnaldi (Salizada San Pantalon, Santa Croce 35, www.facebook.com/cantinarnaldi); cocktails: Il Mercante (Campo dei Frari, San Polo 1770, www.ilmercantevenezia.com); great view: All’Ombra del Leone (Ca’Giustinian, San Marco 1364, www.ombradelleone.com)
Dinner with friends: pizza: Nono Risorto (Santa Croce 2338, alnonorisortovenezia.com); traditional Venetian dinner: Trattoria da Bepi già 54 (Cannaregio 4550)
Special evening dinner: Il Ridotto (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, Castello 4509, www.ilridotto.com); Estro (Calle Crosera, Dorsoduro 3778, www.estrovenezia.com); Anice Stellato (Fondamenta de la Sensa, Cannaregio 3272)
Shops: clothes: La Casa di Loto (Calle Larga Foscari, Dorsoduro 3856, www.lacasadiloto.com); handmade bags and shoes: Style Shoes by Monica Bravin (Ruga Rialto, San Polo 409, www.facebook.com/people/Style-Shoes); jewelry or high-quality bijoux: Andreina Brengola (Fondamenta dei Tolentini 180a, Santa Croce, andreinabrengola.com); books: Studium (San Marco 337) and sullaluna (Fondamenta de la Misericordia, Cannaregio 2535, www.sullalunavenezia.it); food: farmers markets, Rialto or the organic store NaturaSi (Calle della Regina, Santa Croce 2264, www.facebook.com/NaturaSi.Venezia); wine and spirits: Mascari (San Polo 381) and Mille Vini (Ramo del Fontego dei Tedeschi, San Marco 5362, www.enotecamillevini.it)
Books: Venice City of Pictures by Martin Gayford, for all those passionate about art and history
Whether you’re a first-time visitor or a seasoned Venice lover, I’m sure you will discover something new in this walk by following the footsteps of locals like Nicoletta. Don’t forget to check back for more walks in this series, as we continue to explore Venice through the eyes of its residents. In the meantime, check out ‘9 insider tips to escape the crowds‘ and discover how to experience a quieter, more peaceful side of Venice.
Enjoy your walk!